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צפייה בגרסה מלאה : מחפש המלצה לסט חולצי ברגים במחיר שפוי



GodsFather
23-04-13, 00:12
היי,

בעקבות תקיעה של חבר עם בורג פולי בהונדה, עלה בי הרצון לקנות סט.

רפרפתי באתר וראיתי שיש דעות חלוקות על טיב המוצרים ושסט טוב עולה כמה מאות דולרים(!!) וכל דבר פחות מזה שווה לעכוז.

אז האמנם ?

shmil
23-04-13, 08:08
יש לי סט כזה שהיה פעם בל.כ.
להגיד ששוה לעכוז יהיה חטא,
ולהגיד שמצליח תמיד לחלוץ יהיה יומרנות.

GodsFather
23-04-13, 10:06
קצת קשה לי להגיע לל.כ. בימים אלה, במיוחד מאז שהם עברו לרמלה.

המלצות לסט כלשהו ?

יש לי את שוורץ, טכנו צינור ופירוטכניקה מתחת למשרד, אבל רגע לפני שאני קופץ אליהם אני מעדיף לדעת מה יהיה נכון לרכוש.

אבו שפם
29-04-13, 23:57
מומלץ בחום...

מחיר שפוי ועושה ת'עבודה מצויין...

http://www.halco.co.il/cms_data/prodimages/BM84790234201255481290.jpg

GodsFather
30-04-13, 12:31
קניתי לבסוף סט מצוין משוורץ. אבו מאיפה לקנות את הסט שהמלצת עליו ?

לצערי זה לא עזר לתקלה הספציפית כי הבורג נשבר בקראנק וכשמנסים לחלוץ זה מסובב את המנוע (גיר אוטומט, לא יודע איך עוצרים).

קדחתי את הבורג כולו לבסוף ועכשיו מבריזים/מתקינים תותב במקום.

אין ספק שזו הייתה ועודנה חוויה.

lizard
30-04-13, 12:44
היית מכניס להילוך. המנוע אני מבין גם ככה לא היה מניע.

GodsFather
30-04-13, 12:51
גיר אוטומט.... שום הילוך לא עוצר את המנוע

BackDoorMan
30-04-13, 13:21
עכשיו יש לך זמן לקרוא את כל הלינקים לחילוץ .
http://www.hinet.co.il/Information/Article.asp?CategoryID=2135&ArticleID=108495
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.cfm
http://www.ducatitech.com/info/cyl_stud.html
http://www.dimebank.com/tech/BrokenBolt.html
http://www.reds-headers.com/html/red_s_engine_talk_9.html
http://yarchive.net/car/broken_bolt_remove.html

http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/brknbolt.htm

Studs - The Two Nut Trick

To remove studs don't use stud extractors. They chew up the threads and destroy the studs as they remove them. Wind on two nuts and do them up tightly against each other. Use a spanner on the bottom nut and wind the stud out. If it won't come out with normal force then apply the hammer technique first.

So the bolt finally broke

Despite one's best efforts the occasional fastener is going to break. How to remove it depends on what remnants are left and why it broke. The main problem is when the remains are under the surface of the component the bolt is in and you can't get a pair of vice grips on the stub. If a bolt or stud snapped while it was being tightened then chances are the remains will not be tight in the female thread it's left in. In those cases you can drill a small hole into it and use an Easy-Out which is a left hand threaded removal tool. The tricky bit is drilling the pilot hole without slipping off and ruining the component the bolt is stuck in. That's much more easily done on a milling machine or pillar drill with a milling cutter rather than a drill bit which will slip off the jagged end of the bolt. Trying to do this in situ is not easy. One way is to clamp a piece of steel to the component with a pilot hole already drilled in it to guide your drill bit centrally into the bolt.

If the bolt snapped while being removed because it was rusted into its thread then an Easy-Out is unlikely to work. Let's face it, if the full strength of the top half of the bolt wasn't enough to remove the threaded bit then a smaller tool fitted into a little pilot hole isn't going to help either. Chances are you'll break the Easy-Out inside the bolt and end up in an even worse mess. The way out here is to mill the bolt out carefully and retap the threads in the component or to helicoil the component back to its original size if the threads are too damaged to be used. Spark erosion is a useful method but expensive and obviously needs the component to be taken to a specialist. Welding a nut to any broken stub that can be reached is a good plan as described above.

If you don't have the tools or techniques to safely remove a broken bolt then don't try. You'll just damage things further. Take it to a machine shop and have it done properly.

The bolts are all out but the component won't come apart

Are you sure all the bolts are out? Sometimes there is a hidden bolt the engine designer put in to try your patience. On the thermostat housing of the Peugeot 205 there are several obvious hex bolts and one sneaky allen bolt inside a recess which can be overlooked. Similarly I'm sure many people have struggled to remove the centre main bearing cap on this engine before realising there are two extra 8mm bolts which go in sideways from the outside of the block. If you've been wrestling with a component which refuses to come undone have another look all round it and make sure you haven't missed a fastener.



So the bolt finally broke

Despite one's best efforts the occasional fastener is going to break. How to remove it depends on what remnants are left and why it broke. The main problem is when the remains are under the surface of the component the bolt is in and you can't get a pair of vice grips on the stub. If a bolt or stud snapped while it was being tightened then chances are the remains will not be tight in the female thread it's left in. In those cases you can drill a small hole into it and use an Easy-Out which is a left hand threaded removal tool.
The tricky bit is drilling the pilot hole without slipping off and ruining the component the bolt is stuck in. That's much more easily done on a milling machine or pillar drill with a milling cutter rather than a drill bit which will slip off the jagged end of the bolt. Trying to do this in situ is not easy. One way is to clamp a piece of steel to the component with a pilot hole already drilled in it to guide your drill bit centrally into the bolt.
If the bolt snapped while being removed because it was rusted into its thread then an Easy-Out is unlikely to work. Let's face it, if the full strength of the top half of the bolt wasn't enough to remove the threaded bit then a smaller tool fitted into a little pilot hole isn't going to help either. Chances are you'll break the Easy-Out inside the bolt and end up in an even worse mess. The way out here is to mill the bolt out carefully and retap the threads in the component or to helicoil the component back to its original size if the threads are too damaged to be used. Spark erosion is a useful method but expensive and obviously needs the component to be taken to a specialist. Welding a nut to any broken stub that can be reached is a good plan as described above.

If you don't have the tools or techniques to safely remove a broken bolt then don't try. You'll just damage things further. Take it to a machine shop and have it done properly.

The bolts are all out but the component won't come apart

Are you sure all the bolts are out? Sometimes there is a hidden bolt the engine designer put in to try your patience. On the thermostat housing of the Peugeot 205 there are several obvious hex bolts and one sneaky allen bolt inside a recess which can be overlooked. Similarly I'm sure many people have struggled to remove the centre main bearing cap on this engine before realising there are two extra 8mm bolts which go in sideways from the outside of the block. If you've been wrestling with a component which refuses to come undone have another look all round it and make sure you haven't missed a fastener ____

סופת המדבר
05-05-13, 23:00
סתם שאלה
הבורג נשבר עמוק בפנים?
נשבר ''בדרך החוצה'' ז'תומרת לא רצה להיפתח?
נשבר בסגירה?

GodsFather
06-05-13, 00:06
נשבר עמוק בפנים במהלך נסיעה

סופת המדבר
06-05-13, 22:44
ומה הבעיה היתה לחלוץ אותו בריתוך?
אין גישה?

GodsFather
07-05-13, 09:25
אין גישה נוחה בריתוך, איזור מאד צפוף.

BackDoorMan
07-05-13, 14:10
תעלה תמונה, הצלחתי פעם לרתך בורג עבה למקום עם גישה קשה ב ZX ולשחרר עם אימפקט את הכל.

אז לא הייתי פוסל את האופציה הזו, למרות שהריתוך הצליח רק לאחר מספר נסיונות.

GodsFather
07-05-13, 16:34
אתה בשרשור הלא נכון - הכל בא על מקומו בשלום לאחר שקדחתי את הבורג כולו, הברזתי תותב פנימה.